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|Home 'Switch and Outlet Wiring Made Easy'|
Power Source at Switched Item
Read the legal disclaimer page - click the legal link in the menu at bottom of page
STEP 1 - Make certain that the power supply cable is dead - turn off the electrical breaker at the service panel. Make certain that everyone in the house is aware of what you are doing so that they do not get the notion to reset the breaker when another light in the home is not working.
STEP 2 - Make the box openings (if a existing home)
STEP 3 - Feed / Route the wire cables.
STEP 4 -Mount / Install the Electrical Boxes (make sure the electrical boxes are secured as some fixtures are heavy and may require additional support) [The electrical box should not extend beyond the edge of the finished wall or ceiling so that the fixture can mount flush to the ceiling and the wall switch cover will mount flush - but it also should not be recessed too far into the wall or ceiling]; then feed the wire cables into the electrical boxes. Sometimes because of tight openings in existing homes, the wire cable may to be feed into the electrical box then the box put in position and secured.
STEP 5 - Connect the wires...
At the Switched item box (such
as a furnace)...
At switch 1 box...
* a) connect the white wire coming from `switched item'
to one of the main screws of switch.
At switch 2 box...
One cable entering this box.
By electrical codes you MUST have at least 6 inches of wire in the electrical box itself, and also the wire must be able to reach at least 3 inches outside the box, it can fail an electrical inspection if the required min. wire length is not met. You may have the wires a bit longer (within reason) but they cannot be shorter. Also see the note on box fill further down in this article.
You are allowed to re-designate a white wire to be used as a hot (ungrounded conductor) in switch circuits but in those cases where a white wire is used in this manner, you must wrap a piece of black electrical tape around that white wire inside the box to signify that is being used as an ungrounded (hot) conductor.
You cannot re-designate a white wire that is actually connected to a light fixture / switched item itself.
In the configuration depicted on this page, the whites wires at both ends of the cable between the 'series switched item' & switch 1, and the white wires at both ends of the cable between switch 1 & 2 have been re-designated as a switched hot wire and therefore require a piece of black electrical tape around the ends of them. The white wire of the power supply cable going to 'switched item' is a grounded conductor (neutral) and therefore left as white with no tape on it.
Please refer to your switched item documentation for connections there, you may post to our forums for additional help for this.
What is not shown in the drawings to avoid confusion, is that each wire cable also has a bare equipment grounding wire included. This wire is connected to a grounding screw in each electrical box (if the box is metal), joined either through the grounding screws in the box itself or via a wire nut to the bare wire of the next cable entering / exiting the box, it is also connected to any grounding screw (if there is one) on the switch itself, as well as any grounding screw at the switched item (green wires are grounds). Now if using a plastic box, it is made of a material that is non conductive, however some plastic boxes have a metal strip inside that can still be used to connect equipment grounding wires, in the event that it does not use wire nuts to join the bare grounding wires together. The equipment grounding wire (bare in most cables) must be electrical conductively joined throughout the circuit. Green wires are also equipment grounding conductors.
If there is an equipment grounding screw on the switch it may be
green in color and be separated away from the main connections of the
switch and likely part of the metal frame that is also part of the
mounting structure of the switch.
By: Donald Kerr
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